Day 16 – Transition

We had a nice almost restful day in Los Angeles.  Due to a lack of sleep the previous night we slept and dozed until mid-morning.  Then we took the bus to Santa Monica.  It took about fortyfive minutes.  Los Angeles is certainly the city of cars rather than angels.  Roads are wide with even minor roads seeming to be four to six lanes wide.  The bus trip was cheap $2 return.  There is no way you could run a car for that amount of money.  The City of Santa Monica seemed to have quite a network, yet the cars on the road were significant.  Like the other cities SUVs seemed to outnumber any other car except in Santa Monica where it was mixture of expensive cars  some American but predominantly European.

Part of the mall

Santa Monica is clearly a very rich community.  The shopping mall was pristine.  Like something you see in a brochure.  No grime or grubbiness. 
 
After some lunch and a half decent coffee we went down to the Santa Monica Pier.  The pier was interesting enough for having lots of different businesses on it.  However, the breadth of the beaches were what took my breath away.  A natural phenomenon caused by a man made harbour.  The car parks are also massive.  

Santa Monica pier

We hired a bike from a franchisee of Blazing Saddles.  While the price was not too bad the service and quality of the bikes was very poor.  If I were Blazing Saddles I would not have my brand associated with this crowd.  Nonetheless we had a wonderful bike ride along the beach where the concrete path is set in the sand.  Venice Beach was interesting in that there is what they call a boardwalk where there many little craft type stalls set up.  Lots of them but not many punters.  

The ride took us past Muscle Beach  where there were a number of people flexing their muscles and using the equipment.  Very interesting.  

Apartments on the beach

It was just on 5pm when we caught the bus back to the hotel.  It turned out to be a very long journey timewise, Taking something like an hour and a half when it had taken us only half an hour to get there.  The rush hour traffic was something to behold.  I suspect Auckland is a prime example of the speed that happens.  A bus lane would have been very useful. What really amazed me is not only the volume of traffic but the size of the cars.  In the rich communities they seemed to be proportionately smaller.  One SUV or van that really made me chuckle was one called a Suburban.  It is huge and often there was only one person driving it.  The other is this large car called a Town Car.  I fear that Auckland is going to be another LA with the emphasis by the government on roads.  It seems we build more to relived congestion only to create more as more cars decide to use the roads.  We don't seem to have learned from the US.

Muscle Beach

Getting through immigration and security was quite quick which surprised us as we had expected to take a long time so had given ourselves plenty of time to get there.  Unfortunately Bev did not get her upgrade to Premium Economy so we again sat in separate parts of the aircraft.  I really do think the airlines need to think about the lack of comfort and space that is now provided.  I guess the demand is still there for cheap seats.  Personally I would prefer to pay a bit more for space in the same way that we did with JetBlue.  At the moment there is only Premium Economy which seems to have gotten away from the idea of a bit pricier to expensive and more like the old business class seats.  If one had the money then the lie flat seats for night flights are ideal.  

I had a fascinating conversation with this New Zealander who had invented this fabric that could measure pressure.  It is a New Zealand firm but he is based in the UK.

We arrived back in Auckland to a beautiful clear morning that turned out to be nice and sunny although quite chilly.  Wellington was also gorgeous with light winds and a clear sky.  

The trip was far too short but it was very enjoyable.  I am now wanting to do some more travel. 

Day 15 – Leaving New York and a reflection

After four wonderful days in New York we left rather early.  It had been recommended that we take the little bus to the Port Authority and then a taxi to JFK airport.  It was thought that would be our least risky option.  Despite our early start, about 6am, I was concerned about traffic given the love of cars that Americans have (possibly only New Zealanders are as attached).  So after talking with Lynda we decided to take our fate in our hands and use the public transport options. It worked well.  The subway took us to the Airtrain which connects with JFK in very good time.  We only had to carry our luggage down one flight of stairs.  There were escalators and elevators everywhere else. 

We flew Jetblue.  I had upgraded our seats to “Evenmore Space” which gave us the best legroom I have experienced.  Our flight was delayed by an hour due to an issue the staff had with legal hours; it seems they had timed out due to a late arrival the previous day.  At least they were keeping us safe.  But it meant getting another crew, hence the delay.  The only complaint that I had about the flight apart from service, was that that the seats had to be the most uncomfortable I have experienced  It was as if the padding had been squished to the utmost.   The service was adequate but not as good as either Air NZ or Air Canada. At one point I wanted some water and it was as if I had asked for the crown jewels. 

It was mid-afternoon by the time we got to Los Angeles.  After checking in we decided that all we had time to do was go out for a meal which we did at the Hilton where the food was reasonably priced but not that well cooked.  It was much cooler than I expected it to be in  LA, being around 19 degrees.

Looking back on our time in New York it was busy.  The weather was nice and to an extent that dictated our activities.  We did not get to a show or see a museum, there was just not enough time.  Next time I come I would love to go further into Brooklyn, the Bronx, and Queens.  There are also the museums and shows.  Perhaps that is for a winter visit.  

It has been a colder winter that has lasted longer than usual; that goes for Canada as well.  Spring is very late in arriving.  None of the trees in either Ottawa or Quebec were showing any sign of green and there were no flowers out yet.  Montréal did have the first signs of spring with the first green shoots and a few flowers tentatively trying to decide if was warm enough to come out.  Whereas in New York the tulips were flowering, daffodils were past their best and the trees were the verdant green that one sees in early spring.  People were also out in the sun.  Park benches and the grassy area had people everywhere lying in the sun. 
 

Buses, trucks and yellow cabs

New York seems to be a city of yellow taxis, buses and large cars and SUVs.  The traffic was extremely slow. When we came out of the Lincoln Tunnel onto 40^th Street during rush hour it was often faster to walk.  Yet for all that traffic flowed, drivers were patient and they seemed to be aware of both pedestrians and cyclists.  On other hand the roads in New York were terrible.  Potholes everywhere the surface was rough and looked like third world roads.  Some it apparently a legacy of the harsh winter they have had. 

Reclaiming the streets

Several months ago I saw a TED talk by the New York City Traffic Commissioner (I think) who talked about getting traffic off the road and providing opportunities for people to reclaim the seats.  One day they  painted off areas of roads and put out tables.  Immediately people started sitting in them.  We experienced all of that.  Compared to last time I was here the absence of gridlock was really apparent.  But it was all the people on the streets that was the most noticeable change.  The air did not seem to be as polluted (perhaps that was more to do with engine technology).  It also seemed a safer place; someone we were talking to said that it was the safest large city in the US.  Police were very apparent and were mostly walking about.  They had their values Courtesy Professionalism Respect on their cars and what was more surprising they did not appear to be wearing stab proof vests; at least those on the beat.  Compared to last time they were certainly interacting in a friendly way with people.  

We were lucky to talk with locals.  They certainly provided insights into the place; some of which I have shared.  We found the locals courteous but not overtly friendly.  Apart from the people with whom we had dinner,  there was little interest in us or where we came from nor much interest in engaging in any other way.  There was only one very friendly man who described himself as retired from the army who was cheerful and very friendly and stood out as it was a wonderful interaction.
The other thing that we noticed was that Spanish was effectively the second language.  In San Francisco, New York and Los Angeles all public notices were in both English and Spanish.  The neighbourhood we were in was all Spanish speaking with a number not able to speak English fluently.  It truly is a country of immigrants!  It is a very strange country to be in.  On one level it is very familiar through TV, literature and movies but on another level it is very foreign which makes a wonderful place to visit.  Language the same but the culture so different.

Day 14 – Central Park, a friend and a restaurant

Practicing dance in Central Park

It was our last full day in New York so decided that more cycling was good.  Today’s exercise was to be Central Park.  We found a recommended rental place (don’t believe everything on the internet) that proved to be anything but a good place from which to rent.  The bikes were cheap but the service non-existent.  None of the staff seemed at all happy.  Despite the crappy bike Central Park was a joy to bike around.  It was in its spring colours with the trees all mostly in leaf, there were blossom and lots of flowers.  During our ride we came across a group hustling for money by doing some acrobatics of some sort.  In fact there was more talk than action during the fifteen minutes we were there. 

Peace in a very busy city

Jazz in the park

In another part of the park we stopped to hear some superb jazz before taking our bikes back to the shop.  One of the delightful things was watching this man and woman dancing to the music and when they finished it was clear neither knew each other, just a random encounter.  They were superb dancers!!
 

Northern part of the park near an ice skating rink

The afternoon was spent looking at shops and then we went back to our AirBnB to change into some nicer clothes as we were meeting an old acquaintance from Wellington.  We met an acquaintance Lynda, who I knew when she worked as a recruiter at Wheeler Campbell, at a place called the Strand Hotel which had a rooftop bar; unfortunately there was a private party there so we could not have not a drink unless we crashed it.  

Instead we went to another rooftop bar in Bryant Park.  
   
Lynda went to New York after she got a Green Card.  She arrived with no job but through networks has secured a job and feels very at home in New York.  She is a recruiter and works for a recruitment firm and unusually, for America, does both client and candidate work. Normally they specialise in one or the other  She said it is a very brutal environment where people are eliminated (not made redundant), where you could go into work and find that you do not have a job that day. No notice periods.  That means people tend to be risk averse and fearful of their boss.  Lynda sees herself as having had a dream run so far.  This she puts down to arriving there and being very naïve.  However, she is a superb networker, has really good judgement and will work to the get best deal for both client and candidate.  She has an apartment in Madison Avenue the rental of which compared very favourably to Wellington.  She said that she was taxed about as much as she was in New Zealand but the total tax take is made up of lots of different taxes. 

After our drink Lynda left us to go home and suggested that we ought to look for a restaurant in 9^th Avenue which is very close to the Port Authority and our bus.  There were a lot of different restaurants but I spied Trattoria Casa di Isacco.  It turned out to be an inspired choice.  It was small and intimate and somewhat eccentrically decorated with Elvis clearly an inspiration, even the host’s hair was in a similar style.  He had a broad Italian accent which made him a bit difficult to understand, but regardless he knew how to establish excellent rapport.   The food was excellent.  We shared some of the best cooked calamari I have had; then for a main I had the special, veal rack, and Bev had a veal parmagiana both of which were cooked superbly.  He even praised us for our selections and then afterwards praised the chef's cooking.  We continued to nod furiously in agreement.   Even the presentation was good.  We ended our meal with a Tiramisu.  We had ordered a couple of wines to drink with dinner but half way through he came by and filled our glasses.  Then did it a second time and perhaps a third, by that time I had stopped counting.   I have to say that I was a little merry by the time I finished off my wine.  I suppose it was compensation for the price shock I got with my special, i.e. the veal rack.  

The experience at the Trattoria rounded off our New York experience wonderfully. 

Day 13 – A tall building and cycling in New York

Today was the day to do the Empire State Building.  We had a early start as we wanted to make sure that we did not get stuck in a queue.  We were there shortly after 9am having experienced a nice little traffic jam in the Lincoln Tunnel.  There was no queue and after having gone through security we decided to pay by credit card which proved to be a smart move as there was virtually no queue

Lego buildings with Bryant Park in the centre

 

Ensuring that Bev does not jump

 

Looking toward the south - Freedom Tower dominating

whereas those paying cash were queuing.  It is a magnificent view from the 86^th floor and the visibility was superb.  It also gives one a sense of the geography again, this time from above.  

Having satisfied our need to do the tourist stuff we decided it was time to get a moderately decent coffee.  We were recommended  a place called Stumptown Roasters in the Ace Hotel near the ESB.  The coffee was not quite up to Wellington standards but compared to the other fare we had had in North America is was good.  It was close to lunch time and Ashley had told us about a place where local restaurants had set up little stalls for may and were serving lunches.  We got a freshly made pizza to share.  

After having walked for kilometres the day before we decided that it was time to get some wheels so that we could bike the Brooklyn Bridge.  When we went on our boat cruise we found Blazing Saddles rental bike service so returned to it.  The service was really good by the man looking after it.  We got good quality bikes which were a couple of dollars more expensive.  We were given really good instructions on how to get to the bridge.  Manhattan is well served by cycleways.  Some are separate from the traffic others are a dedicated lane.  

Got there! Now I have to get back!

The distance to Brooklyn bridge was about 10 kilometres from where we picked up the bike mostly along a dedicated cycleway.  When we did mix with the traffic not only did it mostly travel slowly but also drivers did seem to be both pedestrian and cyclist wary.  Perhaps the threat of a suit if they hit someone has the effect of people being careful.  The ride over the bridge was great and we then found a nice promenade area which looked out toward the toe of Manhattan.  As it was sunny there were lots of people sitting around reading or just dozing.  One of the things I noticed about the parks whether by the river or a promenade is that there are lots of places for people to sit and enjoy the fresh air.  Not only that there was little or no graffiti on the seats.  For some reason people seem to treat them with care.  

Spring has arrived in Brooklyn

After an ice-cream at the famous Brooklyn Ice Cream factory (not as good as NZ ice-creams) we found our way to the Manhattan Bridge and rode that as well.  Then for a moment I took the wrong turn which necessitated some very good navigation and riding in the traffic.  After half an hour or so I got us back to a cycleway that ran along the toe of Manhattan, joining it under the Brooklyn Bridge.  During that little ride I managed to come off my bike when I failed to mount a kerb and desperate to stay on my feet I managed some aerial feat that still had me landing upright.  
 

Brooklyn Bridge (Manhattan Bridge in the background)

By the time  we got back to the waters edge Bev wanted to get back to the bike rental place but I was determined to bike the route around the waterfront which Bev later admitted was well worthwhile.  Going back was hard work as there was quite a head wind. 

For dinner we decided to stay in the city so went down to Greenwich Village where we found the Blue Note Jazz Club but decided it was going to finish too late and we were too tired to really enjoy the music.  Instead we found a place called The Olive Tree which had a Comedy Club below it and to which it was associated.  We had a window seat so we were able to watch all the people who were trying to get in.  There was no space for us so we missed that experience.  It was a nice evening of people watching before taking the subway to the Port Authority and getting our bus back to Union City. 

Day 12 – A park and a river cruise

We were a bit slow this morning.  Our goal was to look at the Highline Park which is between midtown and downtown Manhattan.  There was nothing on the maps that indicated where it was so by using the internet it gave a location by street and avenue.  That meant by the reading the map we could find it.  The Highline is a park that was created using the old elevated railway that ran between downtown and the piers.  In the early days it was used to transport lots of freight but as trucks became the preferred way of moving goods the line had become redundant.  It was closed in the nineties and the idea was to dismantle it.  However the cost was prohibitive and also some locals decided they wanted to keep it and create a park.  Their efforts were rewarded with the park that is still under development.

Highline Park

Railway lines, a nod to the park's previous use

With my excellent navigation skills I found the beginning of the park (or was it the end).  In the meantime I found a salad bar where I got a nice salad for lunch and then sat in the park to eat and watching the people walking past.  We walked the length of the park and it was a delight.  There are trees and shrubs and flowers and being spring there are currently daffodils and tulips and bunch of other stuff a gardener would know the names of.  There are plenty of places to sit, and people were doing just that  as it was a lovely sunny day with the temperature in the late teens.  We walked the length of the park around 3 kilometres perhaps.  It has been done brilliantly from planting to the design

Our next excursion was exactly that, we took a river cruise down the Hudson River and then into the East River.  I found it really useful as I finally got my bearings and a better understanding of the geography.  The map gives an idea of Manhattan, which is one of the five boroughs of NYC.  The trip took about 90 minutes and because the weather was so good it was great for taking photographs. 

Cecile and friends had recommended an Indian Restaurant in an area called Murray Hill  or Curry Hill due to the number Indian restaurants there.  The food there was very good and the service great. The quantity was more than satisfactory and in fact neither of us could eat it all. 
After our meal we went to Times Square to look at the lights.  They are stunning at night.  The crowds were huge and I cannot imagine what it must be like in summer during the peak tourist season. 

Financial District NYC

Day 11 - New York, New York

Iconic

We took a little while to get going in the morning.  We spent the first few hours wandering the streets, including Times Square (it was not at all as I remembered it from 25 years ago).  Bev had been recommended that we should have a Gyro from a street vendor which we did.  Essentially they are some cooked meat or felafel in a pita bread with some salad and of course dressing.  They were very tasty. 

Bryant Park

We walked a whole lot of streets going past a very pretty park called Bryant Park.  Then we ended up near where we had started.  Bev bought us a package of tickets for one of those hop on/hop off buses.  We then took the bus on the downtown tour and got off near the 9/11 memorial and then wandered around for a while.  

Times Square (and yes it was a grey day)

The bus tour did provide some insights, for instance there are separate parks for big dogs and little dogs, of course their owners accompany them.  There is a also and area in Greenwich Village where they cannot do their commentary.  Apparently the locals found it discomforting to have buses with their loudspeakers going past every few minutes. 

The highlight for me of the day was going to Cecile’s (a woman we met on the Milford Track) place opposite Central Park for a drink which turned to be a very nice dinner.  We met her husband and couple of her friends.  We had a simple but wonderful meal.  She regaled us with tales of being at the Correspondents Dinner which is hosted by the President.  She didn’t go to the dinner instead the before and after parties and had taken her daughter Lily.  She had got to bed rather late that night so I was surprised, in hindsight that she had been able to do such a nice meal.  Her friends were also very nice and interesting as was her husband.  

We then navigated the subway and bus back to our accommodation.

I was a bit shattered at the end of the day.  It is something I often find when I have my first day in a place with which I am unfamiliar.  And a place like New York is a bit overwhelming. 

Day 10 - New York here we come

It was our last morning in Montréal and I have to say I feel like I have unfinished business here.  Everytime I have come I have never really had the time to explore the place..  Hedy and Graham picked Bev and the luggage up from the B&B as I was going to go to a local Libraire for a few things in French.  The B&B has a couple of gay men who are wonderful hosts.  After eight years they are giving up the business and instead renting it out to a family.  They have an apartment above and they will keep it.  Michel is around 70 years old and intends to spend more time at his cabin by a lake.  

After having a few enjoyable minutes at the Libraire I caught a bus to where Bev’s nephew Nick and his wife live.  Bev’s other nephew was bringing a new born for a viewing.  They turned up a few minutes before we left for the airport.  Apparently Matthew was not too well due to a very late night continuing the celebrations of Joly’s birthday.  After our meal the previous evening they had gone out for a second meal.  How they fitted it in is beyond me.  

At Montréal Pierre Trudeau Airport we had a very long wait in a queue while we were pre-cleared for the US.  They do all the immigration in Montréal similarly to Vancouver.  It is convenient in one way but it always takes so long to go through no matter where you do it.  At least they were vaguely friendly.

Dead plane on the left replacement on right

We boarded the plane to go to New York on time and then sat at the gate for nearly an hour while they tried to get the plane to go, a computer was malfunctioning.  First it was a shut down and then restarted but to no avail so we were disembarked to wait for another plane.  An hour and a half later we departed in a plane that did work.  

I have found the Canadians generally polite and courteous.  In some ways it is like being at home.  The country is much larger than New Zealand but the population is spread around a few largish cities.  One thing that I did notice during my driving was the state of the roads.  Lots of potholes (apparently and effect of water freezing and expanding).  The other noticeable thing is that there is some very good food available at some restaurants and it does not cost the earth.  The other is more negative, and that is that it is almost impossible to find a decent coffee.

Outside the Port Authority

We arrived into La Guardia a little late due to our delayed flight.  We found a Airporter which took us fairly quickly to  the Port Authority Building.  Our next task was to find where the little bus would take us from to our accommodation in Union City, NJ.  We quickly saw the New York Times building which was opposite the Port Authority.  There were a lot of people waiting and we soon discovered that it was for the bus.  Then a man indicated that we should follow.  I took off but Bev was cautious.  We finally got going but dragging our bags was slow and we lost him.  We went back to the bus stop and a few minutes later he was back and taking us to the bus stop in the building.  We were dropped at the correct bus stop and the directions with which we were supplied  were superb and we were soon in the apartment.  Our host came around and welcomed us.  The room we have is large and very good value for New York.  

She recommended a place to eat around the corner.  It was a Colombian restaurant where the main language was Spanish.  The meals were incredibly cheap.  Fortunately Maria had said to only get one meal and share it.  She was right!  The portions were huge but food was superb.  I think it was about $12 for the meal.  There were people eating not just one plate but other plates as well.  No wonder they were huge.  

So ended our first day in New York.